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| sent on December 16, 2019 (13:09) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
Another challenge!! Un'altra sfida!! |
| sent on December 16, 2019 (13:13) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
Victory! 8-) Vittoria !  |
| sent on December 16, 2019 (16:58)
I would never dare to undertake such work of patience and precision. Bravo. |
| sent on February 01, 2020 (11:42) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
Great, I don't push myself. So much... I have an Ais 35 f2.8 with soft helicoid, do you have any suggestions to fatten it up? Grande, io non mi spingo. Tanto... Ho un Ais 35 f2.8 con elicoide morbido, hai qualche suggerimento per ingrassarlo? |
| sent on February 13, 2020 (21:52) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
If it is too smooth it takes red fat for heavy loads, which is very cleanlocked and brakes a lot, in hindsight to lithium or graphite that is smoother if the helical is hard. On my Micro Nikkor 55 f 3.5 that had the very slack focus due to intense use over the years I used the red fat just enough to recover friction and the precision necessary for use in macros. Se e' troppo scorrevole ci vuole grasso rosso per carichi pesanti, che e' molto vischioso e frena parecchio, senno' al litio o grafite che e' piu' scorrevole se l'elicoide e' duro. Sul mio Micro Nikkor 55 f 3,5 che aveva la messa a fuoco laschissima dovuta ad un uso intenso negli anni ho usato il grasso rosso quanto basta per recuperare frizione e la precisione necessaria all'uso in macro. |
| sent on February 16, 2020 (11:56) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
Do you have any indications on what to disassemble to gain weight? is the flange of the bayonet enough? (ai-s optics 35mm and 28mm) hai delle indicazioni su cosa smontare per ingrassare? basta la flangia della baionetta? (ottiche ai-s 35mm e 28mm) |
| sent on February 16, 2020 (13:08) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
I don't know those two lenses...
I found on youtube "disassemble pre to nikkor 35 mm". The guy is nice and explains everything well !
Give him an eye and make still image where you need it.
ALWAYS ALL, ANY POSITION OF ANY ROBA SMONTI !!! Non conosco quelle 2 lenti...
Ho trovato su youtube "disassemble pre ai nikkor 35 mm". Il tizio e' simpatico e spiega bene tutto quanto !
Dagli un occhio e fai fermo immagine dove serve.
SEGNA SEMPRE TUTTO, QUALSIASI POSIZIONE DI QUALUNQUE ROBA SMONTI !!! |
| sent on February 16, 2020 (13:52) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
Yes I know, my rollei glide 50 1.8 lies as paperstop for this error :) Si lo so, il mio rollei planar 50 1.8 giace come fermacarte per questo errore :) |
| sent on February 16, 2020 (13:55) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
Where do I get fat? Dove recupero il grasso? |
| sent on February 16, 2020 (14:17) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
Amazon Amazon |
| sent on February 16, 2020 (17:08) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
I have been using for 30 years the same jar of dark red fat for bearings and heavy uses, stable at high / low temperatures - presumably lithium - with NLGI3, which has a viscosiness a little higher than the average NLGI 1 -> 2: I feel good but for personal tastes, since I prefer helical more buttery and frictiond than too fluid.
Color itself means nothing, since they decide it based on various pigments and is not related to the internal components, but it can be useful so you see well where you put it.
Just POCO, like 3 times the tip of a cutting screwdriver, to revitalize a helicoid. If you put more, nothing serious happens: simply the clutch increases. Io uso da 30 anni lo stesso barattolo di grasso rosso scuro per cuscinetti e usi gravosi, stabile ad alte & basse temperature - presumibilmente al litio - con NLGI3, che ha una viscosita' un po' piu' alta della media NLGI 1 -> 2: mi trovo bene ma per gusti personali, dato che preferisco elicoidi piu' burrosi e frizionati che troppo fluidi.
Il colore di per se' non significa niente, dato che lo decidono in base a pigmenti vari e non e' legato ai componenti interni, ma puo' essere utile cosi' vedi bene dove lo metti.
Ne basta POCO, tipo 3 volte la punta di un cacciavite a taglio, per rivitalizzare un elicoide. Se ne metti di piu', non succede niente di grave: semplicemente la frizione aumenta. |
| sent on August 31, 2020 (10:31) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
Jacopo but do you really do it?
Straordinary! Jacopo ma davvero lo fai tu?
Straordinario! |
| sent on January 08, 2021 (23:12) | This comment has been translated
Thank you! |
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