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| sent on March 04, 2013 (12:43) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
Well done, I like the effect ellipse near the polar.
Excellent nache light shaft. Too bad for a little auks branch 'moved
Fabio
Ben riuscito, mi piace anche l'effetto ellisse vicino alla polare.
Ottima nache la luce sull'albero. Peccato solo per alche ramo un po' mosso
Fabio
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| sent on March 04, 2013 (15:13)
Superb image. |
| sent on March 04, 2013 (18:57) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
wow, what a spectacular effect. nice job! wow, che effetto spettacolare. bel lavoro!! |
| sent on March 04, 2013 (19:04) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
very special effect, like a vortex ke sucks you in! good compliments! effetto davvero particolare,sembra un vortice ke ti risucchia all'interno! bravo complimenti! |
| sent on March 04, 2013 (19:43)
Impressive shot ! Respect for Post prodution !!!! Bravo ! |
| sent on March 04, 2013 (20:48) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
beautiful photos and congratulations for your patience
bella foto e complimenti per la pazienza
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| sent on March 04, 2013 (23:03) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
Beautiful Startrail :-) Bellissimo startrail  |
| sent on March 04, 2013 (23:32) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
What a show, very nice hello. Che spettacolo,molto bella ciao. |
| sent on March 05, 2013 (1:44) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
very beautiful! :) Curiosity as an amateur (I'm ordering right now my first tripod, then fn'ora long exposures flab ...) read "150 exposure minutes (300 shots of 30 seconds each)" ... does that mean? I was expecting a bulb or something ...
Basically, what is the technique for this type of photo?
Thank you! :) molto bella! :) curiosità da dilettante (sto ordinando giusto ora il mio primo trepiede, quindi fn'ora lunghe esposizioni ciccia...) leggo "150 minutes exposure (300 shots of 30 seconds each)"... che vuol dire? Mi aspettavo un bulb o qualcosa del genere...
Di base, qual è la tecnica per questo tipo di foto?
Grazie! :) |
| sent on March 05, 2013 (17:42) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
This is a really lavorone!
Bravissimo! Questo è davvero un lavorone!
Bravissimo! |
| sent on March 05, 2013 (21:20)
Thank you all for your nice comments !
@ Guidoz: Well, there are two ways of capturing a startrail First option, you can try with only one shot, doing a very long exposure in bulb position. But taking a 3 hours shot might not be so good for your sensor and you will most likely get an overexposed picture doing so. Second option, and the best one in my opinion, is to take several pictures, and merging them all together afterwards in post production. To achieve this, I set my camera in continuous shooting mode, manual mode with a focus on infinity. I set the speed to 30 seconds and I open the lens as much as I can, which is 4.5 with the Sigma 8-16. You'll need of course a cable release, and you will need to lock it in continuous shooting mode which will bring your camera to keep taking pictures until you unlock the cable release. That's it pretty much, enjoy !  |
| sent on March 05, 2013 (23:07) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
(Sorry, in the first place I had not Realised you were not Italian ... and I hate automatic translations ... we surely Effectively communicate more December if we both use Inglese ^ _ ^)
Thanks for sharing your experience .. it's very interesting.
About the bulb mode, I was just wandering how indeed you can not calculate the right time to get it and my answer was overexposed That being the mostly black sky there was not such a risk ... but if you have a lit foreground of course it's different (although I also like the startrails with dark foreground, like Certain mountain silhouettes against the sky starred). I had not thought about problems with the sensor indeed, but it sounds reasonable .. Because being quite lazy too bad I would try the more December Likely bulb method .. just leav th camera do it's job and come back hours later: D
As for the postproduction, I'm not sure how you do this (I use only Lightroom for almost sviluppo my raw, I know I'm not a genius ... PS), if you could quickly explain it, just to have an idea if it's too long and boring for me or I can try it, it would be very kind of you :)
(sorry, in the first place I hadn't realised you were not Italian... and I hate automatic translations... we surely communicate more effectively if we both use English ^_^ )
Thanks for sharing your experience.. it's very interesting.
About the bulb mode, I was just indeed wandering how you can calculate the right time not to get it overexposed and my answer was that being the sky mostly black there was not such a risk... but if you have a lit foreground of course it's different (although I also like the startrails with dark foreground, like certain mountain silhouettes against the starred sky). I hadn't thought about problems with the sensor indeed, but it sounds reasonable.. too bad because being quite lazy I would more likely try the bulb method.. just leav th camera do it's job and come back hours later :D
As for the postproduction, I'm not sure how you do this (I use almost only LightRoom for developing my raw, so i'm not a PS genius... ), if you could quickly explain it, just to have an idea if it's too long and boring for me or I can try it, it would be very kind of you :)
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| sent on March 06, 2013 (13:37) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
hello nice to say the least ......... a dir poco bello.........ciao |
| sent on March 06, 2013 (15:47)
Thank you Roberto!
@Guidoz: don't worry about being lazy because both methods work for lazy people. By locking the cable realease, the camera will keep taking 30 second shots until you unlock the cable release button. So you can leave your camera in your garden, go inside your house while your camera is working and come back to your camera when you think that the number of shots will be long enough. Normally I would recommend around 200 pictures or more, keeping in mind that the more pictures you take the better it will be, since you will get a more pronounced startrail!
For postproduction, there are some softwares which can merge the pictures for you. There are different options out there, depending on the OS you're using. On my mac, I use Starstax, but there are plenty of other options available for Windows as well. Just type "startrail software" on google and that should set you up.
But before merging the shots on the startrail software, I would recommend you to fine tune the pictures on Lightroom first. Take one of your 200+ shots (RAW file), and adjust the settings to make it look as good as possible. You can boost the parameters in order the stars to shine a bit more. Once you have done that for one picture, sync your setting for all the remaining shots so you don't have to do it 200 times. Then you can export the pictures to your desktop and start the merging process. Good luck and I hope you'll have fun as much as I do ! |
| sent on March 06, 2013 (22:15) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
Hello I read the comment in great detail guidoz.
I would like to try my hand in these pictures but I start from zero. I have a nikon d 3100 nikon sigma 18:55 and 10:20 .. with this equipment e'possibile perform qs photo? And how is set the camera? Manual? Time and openings?
You'll saro'grato if I distinguished on how to start ... thanks and hello Ciao ho letto il commento molto dettagliato a guidoz.
Vorrei cimentarmi in queste foto ma parto da zero. Ho una nikon d 3100 un obiettivo nikon 18.55 e un sigma 10.20.. con questa attrezzatura e'possibile eseguire qs foto? E come va impostata la fotocamera? Manuale? Tempi e aperture?
Te ne saro'grato se mi illustri su come iniziare...grazie e ciao |
| sent on March 06, 2013 (22:39) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
@ Roberto: bondjames has already answered a few comments ago: 30 seconds (usually the maximum exposure without bulb) and as open as possible that its lens is f/4.5. Manual focus to infinity. He did not mention the ISO, but I think knowing your car will put something that does not make too much noise, or view the exhibition perhaps you can afford to put ISO 100 (bondjames, you can clarify this?). I think you can still do some testing with single images to then decide what you will use.
@ Bondjames: thank you very much! I also use a mac, and I'm going to look for the software and try your technique as soon as I receive the tripod I just ordered .. only one question: among the problems with bulb mode (that I still would prefer, at least in theory, as it's only one shot) you Mentioned possible damages for sensor .. it does indeed make sense butI was wondering what is the difference among a 2h 2h of 30sec and bulb exposition expositions with a very quick pause (I can guess matter of hundredth of seconds) in between ... the sensor will not be exposed anyway for a long time to almost fixed images? Or the difference Is that the image is discarded and reacquired from sensor every 30 secs? And just to go more in depth with the bulb option too (I'm going to try both, Unless really so dangerous) any idea on how to set the camera / calculate times to avoid overexposition? No need to write everything here, you can just give me some good links :)
thanks a lot! :)
@Roberto: bondjames ha già risposto qualche commento fa: 30 secondi (di solito la massima esposizione senza bulb) e la massima apertura possibile che sulla sua lente è f/4.5. Fuoco manuale all'infinito. Non ha menzionato l'ISO, ma penso che conoscendo la tua macchina metterai qualcosa che non faccia troppo rumore, o vista l'esposizione forse ci si può permettere di mettere ISO 100 (bondjames, puoi chiarire questo?). Penso che puoi comunque fare qualche prova con singole immagini per decidere cosa poi userai.
@bondjames: thank you very much! I also use a mac, and i'm going to look for the software and try your technique as soon as I receive the tripod I just ordered.. only 1 question: among the problems with bulb mode (that I still would prefer, at least in theory, as it's one shot only) you mentioned possible damages for sensor.. it does make sense indeed but I was wondering what is the difference among a 2h bulb exposition and 2h of 30sec expositions with a very quick pause (I can guess matter of hundredth of seconds) in between... won't the sensor be anyway exposed for a long time to almost fixed images? Or the difference is that the image is discarded from sensor and reacquired every 30 secs? And just to go more in depth with the bulb option too (I'm going to try both, unless really so dangerous) any idea on how to set the camera/calculate times to avoid overexposition? No need to write everything here, you can just give me some good links :)
thanks a lot! :)
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| sent on March 07, 2013 (0:11)
Hii Roberto, the Canon 10-22 lens will for perfectly for the startrail, just use the 10mm focal length because you will need an angle of view which is as wide as possible to incorporate as many stars as possible in your shot! If you have a fisheye lens, that might be even better, but at 10mm you will already get a great result!
You're right Guidoz, I forgot to mention the ISO setting. This setting will vary depending on the darkness of the sky. For a 4.5 aperture and a 30 seconds speed value, I would typically set it between 800 ISO and 1600 depending on the moon and the overall darkness of the sky. If you have a 2.8 aperture, then you could maybe set your ISO between 400 and 800! Open your lens as much as possible, set the speed to 30 seconds and just try with different ISO settings until you get the result you want. Don't hesitate to push up the ISO because this will allow you to see more stars in the sky!
I have no evidence of sensors getting damaged because of too long exposures but I have read on several websites that it is better to have 200 shots of 30 seconds rather than one shot of 100 minutes. Maybe because the light accumulates in your sensor if you use only one exposure while it resets after each shot if you use separate shots?
Here are some links which will give you more insights with respect to startrails, enjoy!
www.jamesvernacotola.com/Resources/How-To-Photograph-Star-Trails/12233
diyphotography.net/your-complete-guide-for-photographing-star-trails
www.artinnaturephotography.com/gallery/twilightarticle/ |
| sent on March 07, 2013 (1:14) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
You've been just awesome! :)
Now I really want to try this out! You've been just awesome! :)
Now I really want to try this out! |
| sent on March 07, 2013 (7:45) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
thanks guys ...... very kind:-D grazie ragazzi......gentilissimi |
| sent on March 22, 2013 (17:54) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
Great shot! Great shot! |
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