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sent on April 27, 2020 (20:53) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
The silhouettes always have a certain charm and the whiteness of the rough sea goes well with the cloudy sky. Le silhouette hanno sempre un certo fascino e il biancore del mare mosso si sposa bene col cielo nuvoloso.
sent on April 27, 2020 (21:32) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
I had to open the shadows the white of the sea gave me back a slightly darker image. This made the silhouettes a little easier but made the photo darker than I would have liked. In the end maybe the whiteness is a little too much. I would like to understand how the photo could have been taken better. Are we going to open the debate? Ho dovuto aprire le ombre il bianco del mare mi ha ridato indietro un'immagine un pò più scura. Questo mi ha facilitato un pò le silhouette ma ha reso la foto più scura di quello che avrei voluto. Alla fine forse il biancore è un pò troppo.
Mi sarebbe utile capire come si sarebbe potuta scattare meglio la foto.
sent on April 28, 2020 (11:29) | This comment has been automatically translated (show/hide original)
Opening shadows means lightening, not darkening, and the photo is not dark in the landscape; I like human figures like that, like silhouette. If you wanted them to be perfectly visible you had to open the diaphragm to f5.6 of your 70mm and/or photograph not at 1/800 but less maybe at 1/125. However, if you are in the beginning use the priority of the diaphragm and in automation the machine adjusts your time. You can keep them automatically. The important thing is to point the machine's display to the point you want to make well as brightness and you have to choose it possibly semispot. I hope to be useful to you. ;-) Aprire le ombre significa schiarire, non scurire e la foto difatti non è scura nel paesaggio; le figure umane mi piacciono così, come silhouette. Se volevi che invece fossero perfettamente visibili dovevi aprire il diaframma a f5,6 a 75mm e/o fotografare non ad 1/800 ma a meno, magari a 1/125. In tal caso però il cielo sarebbe diventato slavato e biancastro (magari in post-produzione si poteva recuperare se fotografi in raw). Comunque se sei agli inizi usa la priorità del diaframma e in automatismo la macchina ti adegua il tempo. Gli iso puoi tenerli in automatico. L'importante è puntare l'esposimetro (meglio in semispot) della macchina verso il soggetto che vuoi rendere bene come luminosità. Spero di esserti utile.
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