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Introduction
to Adobe Photoshop
I use exclusively Adobe Photoshop to post processes
my photos; even though there are many image editors, none come close
to the wide range of features and the advanced controls of Photoshop
CS3. The price is pretty high, but if you are seriously
interested to post processing, it is a good investment: with the
right techniques, Photoshop can really improve your photos.
A glance to
Photoshop CS3 and Camera RAW
Adobe Photoshop CS3, announced
in March 2007, is the tenth version of the most popular photo
editing software. It has a rational and well-thought interface that gives
access to the many controls. The workspace is easily customizable;
on the right you see
my usual workspace with PS CS3. On the left side there is the Toolbar;
the image is in the center, and in the right side there are
the windows that I use most often: Navigator, History
and Layers. The upper (horizontal) toolbars contains the
various menus and the settings for the selected tool.
The strenght of Photoshop is a complete set of controls and tools that allows
to retouch every aspect of the image (color, contrast, detail, etc.),
to correct lens and camera errors, and to expand your
creativity. Photoshop is not designed to be easy - some tools are
pretty straightforward, but others require some time to learn
how they works: the purpose of my articles about Photoshop is
to explain how to get the best results from this program with
nature photography images.
On the right: the
default workspace of Photoshop CS3
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Photoshop includes Adobe Bridge, an excellent file
browser, and Adobe Camera RAW, the plug-in to convert the RAW files
of nearly all existing cameras. Every two-three months Adobe
upgrades ACR to support the latest cameras; you can download the
latest version from the Adobe
Camera RAW page. The installation of ACR is not user-friendly at
all - Adobe lets you download the (zipped) file, they you have to
copy it in the folder "Program Files/Common
Files/Adobe/Plug-Ins/CS3/File Formats" if you have windows
or "Library/Application Support/Adobe/Plug-Ins/CS2/File Formats"
with Macintosh. Why Adobe has choosen this system instead of a
simple auto-installing application is still a mistery to me;
lucliky, you don't need to update often the camera RAW file, unless
you buy every new camera that comes out ;-)
My workflow : from
camera to print
I carefully post processed each one of my RAW files
to optimize the image; usually I spend 10-15 minutes per photo, even
though some photos that requires advanced processings take more
time. The first step is to set the camera file format on on RAW. The other
parameters (Saturation, Contrast, Sharpening, White Balance) don't
matter, you can set them as you want since they will be applied only
to a small preview image, and the RAW file remains untouched. You
can change all them when you open the file with ACR.
With Adobe Camera RAW, I set all the parameters and
the controls on neutral values, as shown in the following
screenshots. I prefer to avoid enhancements with ACR, because its
controls are not as fine and advanced as the tool of Photoshop.
Converting the file with these settings, you get a very flat, soft
file: while it looks bad, it is actually a very
"unthouched" image that has the maximimum detail you can
extract from the file, and it is very workable with the tools of PS.
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I set the controls
of Camera RAW on neutral values to get a untouched file that
I process exclusively with PS.
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If the photo is very
underexposed of overexposed, I use the Exposure slider to give
the right brightness to the image, otherwise leave the Exposure on
zero. I open the photo in 16 bit / Adobe RGB mode.
When I've loaded the photo into PS, I do the main
adjustments of color and contrast for all the photos, and other
customized processing: for example, if the photo has been taken at
high ISO I use noise reduction; for some sunrise/sunset photos I use
the technique of blended exposures to expand the dynamic range; many
times I use the layers and layer mask to make selective adjustments
of color, contrast and other enhancements (all my techniques are
described in-depth in my Photoshop articles).
When I've finished the processings, I convert the photo to 8 bit and save it as uncompressed TIFF.
I don't apply sharpening to this file: many magazines requires
unsharpened files (becauce they prefer to apply their sharpening,
instead of relying on the sharpening techniques of every
photographer). I use the sharpening only when I create the web
version of the photo, or when I want to make a print: in this
case, I create a copy of the file, where I apply the sharpening
required for a determined print size.
Why post
processing?
There are many ways to post-process a photo. You can
do just the basic adjustments of contrast and saturation, or even
setting the camera on your preferred color/contrast parameter,
shooting in JPEG and don't post-processes the photos at all. In the
other hand, you can spend hours on every photo, to use advanced
techniques and to enhance every aspect of the image that can be
improved. You can consider nature photography as a kind of
photojournalism, that has the purpose to show reality, or like
portraiture and art, where every retouch is allowed. They are very
different interpretations, but they are both legit.
My approach to nature photography is something
between these two "extremes": I try to enhance the photo
as much as I can, while maintaining its value of natural history
image (in particular for animals: I consider the landscapes a more
"artistic" genre).
My photos are not a faithful representation of reality, rather an
"interpretation" of the scene - I like warm, saturate
colors, perfect contrast, clean background without distracting
elements and perfect details. On the other hand, I want to mantain
the natural history value, so I don't make composites (with
composite I mean taking the subject from a photo and moving it into
another photo), and I don't do other retouches that invalidate the
image. Just to make an example, it is ok for me to clone out even
large elements from the background, but I'd never add a sixt gill to
a fish, even though it would be just a matter of cloning few pixel:
it is not the width or the intensity of the retouch that matters,
but its action.
This is not a rule: it is just my approach, a
personal choice. I respect the different views about nature
photography, and I like both the "journalistic" and the
"artistic" interpretations.
The following photos are shown before and after, to
give you an idea of the results that you can achieve with good post
processing techniques, and to show how I processes my images.
Remember that the RAW looks pretty flat due to the conversion
setting that I use, as explained in the previous paragraph.
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This is one of my
most post-processed photos. Here, I did major cloning
retouches to remove the out of focus herons.
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The key to improve
this photo is to work on contrast, to give depth to the
image and to create strong, pleasing colors.
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I cloned out the
bright grass stem into background and I did some careful
contrast ajudtsment to get the best colors and detail.
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Many times, there
is not a night and day difference: here, the main
enhancement is the correction of brightness and contrast.
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I cropped for
composition and I warmed up the colors, to enhance the
light. Reality was something between the two versions.
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A tighter crop
helped to focus the attention on the subject, and with some
work on color and contrast I got very pleasing tones.
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A simple crop,
contrast and color balance. I've choosen to leave the
grasses in front to give an idea of the environment.
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I enhanced the
colors and the contrast, paying much attention to preserve
the detail in the white stamens.
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I cloned out a
stick and I "painted" on the out of focus areas to
improve the background; I added a little of room on the
bottom.
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I cropped to get a
less centered composition, and I enhanced the contrast. I
warmed up the colors and I increased saturation.
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Do you have
comments or questions?
If you have comments or questions about this
article, feel free to ask in the Juza
Nature Photography Discussion Forum!
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