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The
Amazing Canon MP-E 65mm 1x-5x (May 23, 2007)
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| Canon
EOS 20D, Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.8 1x-5x Macro, 1/125 f/8, iso
100, handheld, flash. Firenze, Italy. |
The Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.8 1x-5x Macro
is the most extreme macro lens currently available in every digital
SLR system. When I look through this lens, I feel like Alice in the
Wonderland: through this lens, you can see a whole new world of
amazing creatures, colors, shapes...even the smallest creatures
becomes fascinating alien-like monsters, and you can see every
single "cell" of a butterfly eye, the cells of a leaf, and
many other amazing details that you can't even imagine by naked
eye...
What is the MPE? For those who don't
know it yet, the MPE is a very specialized macro lens that is able
to reach a magnification ratio from 1x (1:1) to 5x (5:1). Almost all
macro lens are able to reach 1:1, but the MPE is the only one that
goes to the amazing 5:1 ratio! It is a fantastic lens, but it is not
easy at all - in my opinion, it is the most difficult-to-use lens currently
manufactured by Canon. First, it is made exclusively for macro
photos: you can't frame subjects larger than 24x36mm. Other than
that, it is manual focus, well, actually it has not focussing: it
has just a large ring that allows to select the magnification, then
you have to move back and forth to put the subject in focus. The
depth of field is extremely small - the smallest aperture available
is f/16, but actually you can use this aperture only at 1:1, at
higher magnifications you have to use wider apertures, otherwise the
diffraction soften the image so much that it becomes unusable. The
following table shows the smallest aperture that I recommend to use
at every magnification, and the field of view, both on fullframe and
APS-C cameras.
| Magnification |
Smallest
recommended f/ |
Field
of view |
| 1x |
f/16 |
24x36mm
(FF), 15 x 22.5mm (APS-C) |
| 2x |
f/11
(f/16 ICE) |
12x18mm
(FF), 7.5 x 11mm (APS-C) |
| 3x |
f/8
(f11 ICE) |
8x12mm
(FF), 5 x 7.5mm (APS-C) |
| 4x |
f/5.6
(f/8 ICE) |
6x9mm
(FF), 3.7 x 5.6mm (APS-C) |
| 5x |
f/5.6
(f/8 ICE) |
4.8x7.2mm
(FF), 3 x 4.5mm (APS-C) |
In the smallest f/ field, I noted also
the smallest aperture that I'd use "in case of emergency"
- but I'd recommend to use such aperture only when you absolutely
need more DOF, because it already leds to a noticeable loss of image
quality. Even at the smallest apertures, the depth is a millimeter
or less, so the focus is extremely difficult; you have to choose the
area of the image that you want in sharp focus, knowing that the
rest of the photo will be completely out of focus. Usually, with
bugs and other small animals, I try to focus on the eyes, as I did
in this photo.
In a warm morning of May, I was walking
in the woods together with my friends Daniela, Simone and Dario,
when I saw a small orange butterfly. It was early morning and the
butterfly was in shade, so it was very cooperative, because it still
had wet wings due to the morning dew. I removed some grass stems in
front of the subject and I slowly get close...with the MP-E, you
have to get very close: at the maximum magnification, the working
distance is nearly 1.5 centimeters! I'm used to the awesome working
distance of my "250mm macro" (Sigma 180 + 1.4x TC), so
when I tried the MP-E for the fist time I was really disappointed,
but after some days I'm getting used, even though it takes a lot of
patience, and of course you need a very cooperative subject.
Laying flat on the ground, I set the
lens on 1:1 and I framed the butterfly, then I slowly
"zoomed" to 5:1, adjusting the position of the lens to
maintain the subject in focus. This lens is not a zoom - the focal
lenght is always 65mm - but using it "as a zoom" helps a
lot; framing the subject straight at 5:1 is pretty difficult, since
the field of view is very small (3x4.5mm on my 20D). The difference
between this lens and a real zoom is that, while you change the
magnification from 1:1 to 5:1, you have to change also the distance
camera-subject to maintain the focus. But the framing is not the
only challenge - once you have framed the subject, you have to fine
tune the focus, and to make the composition. The viewfinder is
pretty dark, because at 5:1 the brightest aperture of f/2.8 is
effectively a f/16. If your subject is in shade, the
"lamp" function of the Canon MT-14EX helps a lot: it turns
on for some seconds two small lights to brighten up the subject. I'm
not a fan of flash, usually natural light is more pleasing, and the
flash may bother some animals, but it is almost essential with this
lens: handholding it in natural light is science-fiction, using it
on the tripod in natural light is extremely difficult, while the
flash make it usable, even handheld. The Canon MT-14EX ring flash is
not very powerful, but it gives a nice diffused light, and it gives
all the light that you need at the extremely short working distance
of the MP-E. The light of the flash lasts less than 1/10,000, and it
freezes both the movements of the photographer and the movements of
the subject; moreover, it allows to use ISO 100 or 50, to get the
best image quality.
I have taken many shots to be sure that
at least one was in sharp focus where I wanted it; I stopped down to
f/8 to get a little more depth of field, even though this is really
the smallest usable aperture at this magnification. The
post-processing has been quite simple (I did mainly contrast and
saturation adjustment), but I've spent a lot of time to clone out
dust spots: with this lens, even the smallest dust spot becomes
clearly visible, and unless your sensor is really clean you have to
spend some time to delete the dust spots. And my 20D's sensor is
pretty dirty ;-)
The Canon MP-E is not a lens for
everyone - it is expensive, very difficult to use and very
specialized. But once you have mastered its difficulties, you will
be in the Wonderland.
Do you have
comments or questions?
If you have comments or questions about this
article, feel free to ask in the Juza
Nature Photography Discussion Forum!
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