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The
Beautiful Crested Tit (November 25, 2006)
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| Canon EOS 20D, Canon EF 600mm f/4 L IS USM, 1/160 f/4, iso 800, tripod. Engadin, Switzerland. |
The last weekend of October I've come
back in Roseg Valley (Engading, Switzerland) with three fellow
photographers: Daniela, Marco and Francesco. It was a dark, cloudy
day, but as soon as we arrived to the Koncertplatz, we were greeted
by an amazingly beautiful vision...dozens of tits, other birds and
squirrels were all around us!
As soon as I looked into viewfinder, I
realized that it was going to be a "difficult" day. The
shutter speed was 1/40 f/5.6...way too long to stop the motion of
fast moving animals as the tits. I was going to use my brand new
Canon 100-400 for handheld photography, but after viewing the results of a
couple of test shots I switched to the 600 f/4 IS to get a one stop
brighter aperture, even though I knew that the depth of field would
have been razor thin at f/4. Other than that, I raised the ISO
sensitivity from 400 to 800 to get another stop of shutter speed,
and I mounted the lens on the sturdy Gitzo 1548 tripod with
Wimberley head.
I put few peanuts on the ground and I
placed the 600 f/4 at nearly 10-12 meters of distance. The minimum
focussing distance of the Canon 600 f/4 is much shorter - 5.5 meters
- but I preferred to frame the subject with some empty room all
around, to compensate for the lack of depth of field at f/4.
Remember that the width of the framing influences the depth - a
large framing gives more depth of field than a tighter framing. This
photo is a crop of nearly 50% of the full image, and the depth of
field is just enough to have the head and the body in focus (the
tail is already a bit out of focus, even though it does not detract
from the photo). If I had moved the lens closer to the bird to get
this composition directly in-camera, the DOF wouldn't have been
enough to get an acceptable photo. Of course, it is always a
compromise - by framing the subject "wider than necessary"
and cropping you get more depth, but you lose resolution: you always
have to evaluate what is the best strategy to get good results from
the situation. Here, my choice proved to be successful - the depth
of field is just enough, and the photo, that is nearly a 3.5
megapixel crop from the 8.2 megapixel file of my 20D, gives
excellent prints, thanks to the excellent sharpness of the 600 f/4.
The sharpness of the photo matters much more than megapixel - a very
sharp 3-4 megapixel photo gives better prints than a soft 8
megapixel photo.
I toke hundreds of shots to increase
the oddies of having at least one good photo - indeed, many images
were soft due to the slow shutter speed or focus errors (a f/4 the
focus must be perfect, even a small imprecision gives a completely
out of focus photo). When I downloaded the RAW files on my computer,
I did, as usual, a quick selection with Adobe Bridge to elimitate
all the photos that have clear focus or exposure errors, then I
checked the remaining files with Photoshop, observing the images at
100%, and I kept only the photos that were perfectly sharp and well
exposed. I processed this photo with the usual adjustments of
contrast and saturation, and I applied some noise reduction on
background to eliminate the noise.
Do you have
comments or questions?
If you have comments or questions about this
article, feel free to ask in the Juza
Nature Photography Discussion Forum!
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